Ca fait rire les oiseaux . . .
Wednesday, May 31st, 2006Beginning in medias positum of my Memorial Day a la Montreal, let me draw your attention to the title I’ve chosen for this post because it pretty much sums up everything I encountered there the entire weekend. As befitting any wanker pretentious enough to even bother writing a weblog these days, my blog headings are almost always song lyrics or titles and I drove up to Montreal directing my muse at Arcade Fire, Rufus Wainwright, and a host of other new or relatively recent artists whose sound suggests a very daring, but sentimental edginess. It’s true that, in only three days, you can only encounter so much in the range of local musical tastes. Montreal, as befitting its role as a college town, has some truly standout radio, but much of it was in French and, even then, the rotation was varied and infrequent. As we crossed the Saint Lawrence on Pont Champlain, we were heartened to even find a little Gnarls Barkely making its way onto the public waves.
However, the Montreal we kept experiencing over the weekend bore little resemblance to any of this, for better or for worse. And if any single memory is to stand out for me as the most indelible from our entire stay, it will be hanging out on level four of a five level bar on dyke night watching women with spikey haircuts who appeared to be well into their fifties monopolize the dancefloor to a song I last heard on a tourbus somewhere in the Alsacien countryside in 1994.
Yes, that was Montreal reduced to one single moment. And, of course, "Ca fait rire les oiseaux" is a truly charming song that I admit I was excited to hear after so many years. But for all the talk of Montreal being quaint, cosmopolitan, or world class, there was something truly and unmistakably insular about the place. As though it were the rare large city with nothing left to prove, or perhaps that it simply stopped trying. Or, most likely, a strange amalgam of the two; less the taciturn shut-in than the friendly eccentric neighbor who never mows the yard (though mowing will figure prominantly a little later on).
Le Drugstore, where geriatric lesbians dance feverishly to outmoded French pop, was where we first observed that something was amiss. Not being much innured to the dyke bars of New York City, it didn’t set out much that the crowd was truly multigenerational, and counterintuitively getting older as we ascended one level to the next. A similar dynamic could be found down Rue Sainte-Catherine at SkyBar, where a number of Le Drugstore’s patrons would continue their evening among decidedly more male-intensive environs. SkyBar has all the accoutrements of a much more conventional gay bar . . . it also has pour nozles that severaly restrict the flow of alcohol into a drink. Either that, or all Montrealers drink only 2 proof liquor. Point is: this resulted in Mackenzi and I being not at all drunk after nearly six drinks. That we were still functionally sober probably prevented us from fully appreciating the shere absurdity of Kool and the Gang being played in a nightclub where hardly anybody appeared to be between the ages of 23 and 30. We did however, managed to keep ourselves stoked enough to better appreciate the vintage Celine Dion covers posted behind the bar.
An agressive daytime routine the following two days offered us more insite via assorted other arcana: that nobody seems to make eye contact with anyone, that there never seem to be any wastebaskets yet strangely no litter, that the grass in all the public parks seems to have gone unmowed for an extended period of time. Some local traits belied a charming flipside: while there appear to be few grocery stores, there are countless numbers of large, well-attended restaurants, the parks, while fallow, are always full, and the public seems to genuinely enjoy and make use of the city’s various spaces. And while it’s true that people don’t often make eye contact they are friendly, open, and helpful when asked even the stupidest of questions.
The city’s infrastructure, while not crumbling, seems strangely dated . . . or, more aptly, temporally disjointed. Much of the city’s grand-projets arose around either of two events: the 1967 World’s Fair and the 1976 Olympics. The Metro, while clean and efficient, is dingy, overly fluorescent, and more evocative of the one in Cairo than the one in D.C. The skyline is underdevelopped and unassuming while architectural styles seem to jump in clusters from pre-war to the mid-60’s to the late 80’s. I expect this trend to change by the end of this decade. The Olympic Complex at the eastern end of the city is predictably underused, but it’s also hard to imagine that a Major League Baseball franchise called this stadium home until a year ago. Locals may tell you that they feel the same way.
And yet it’s a truly functional city: it’s not decaying in any way and, it bears mentioning, that the locals don’t seem to mind the place at all. Missing is New York’s overbearing exuberance, L.A.’s self-absorption, Chicago’s cloying need to be noticed I don’t know how much of this can be generalized to Canada has a whole. That all the signage and street chatter were in another language only added to the effect.
Other objections, I admit, amount to little more than petty cavilling: yes it’s true that clothing styles seem about four years behind the times but since when was that a crime? And the Goth/Renn Fair look remains very much de rigeur, but I’m sure if you tried hard enough in New York you may find the same thing. And if you go to Canada at all surprised by the pervasiveness of Hockey as a pastime (this raver-ish guy Mackenzi met on the street seriously recommended we go visit the Bell Centre), then you probably have no business crossing the border anyway.
And really, at the end of the day, a city where hardly anybody seems to be using cellphones, iPods, or really any digital devices really can’t be all that bad. I’d probably go back. And, if you’re interested, I suggest you do the same as well. It’s an entirely bearable drive from New York and very reasonably priced. Having a Frenchspeaker at the ready is simply obligatory unless you want to get lost and/or made to look like a total jackass the entire time there. I’m available at reasonable rates if you so desire.
Photographic evidence of our trip has been made available here. As you will probably be able to tell, we got a little too excited about the Limited Edition Maple flavored Drumstick cones, as well as the poutine (fries topped with cheese curds and gravy). The same really can’t be said about Tim Horton’s Combo # 5 . . .
. . . which, on the basis of what I’ve observed this weekend, I fear is being advertised via something Lou Bega-related. Oh well, ca marche . . .


